Project By Kaizen DIY Gym
Introduction
Hey everyone, welcome back! In this article, I’ll show you how to make a simple, but fully upgradeable lever-style belt squat.
If you follow @kaizendiygym on Instagram, you may have seen my recent posts showing this thing off.
I’ll admit that when I first decided to build a lever belt squat, I was pretty skeptical about how well it would work. This thing actually surprised me.
If you love the idea of this style of belt squat but don’t have the tools or the time to build, check out our affiliates. There are lots of purchasable options out there like one from Bells of Steel or the Squatmax-MD.
Video
Instructions
*recommended tools & materials are at the bottom of this article.
I start off with some 2x4s, I cut two 30 inch pieces and two 20 inch pieces.
I mark the center at about two inches from the end of the 30-inch pieces. I drill a 1-inch hole here for my 1-inch hitch pin. If your rack has 5/8” holes, that’s what you’ll drill here.
To make sure all of the pieces are secure when assembled, I’ll be using bolts. Before I do that, I use screws to hold everything in place.
I pre-drill the holes for the bolts. I am using 1/4” bolts to hold these pieces together. I’d recommend using washers too. I didn’t on these because I forgot to get some at the hardware store. It’s easy enough to add them later.
The 20 inch 2x4s go on the outside with a bit of an overlap. Mine overlap by 9 inches but you can do more or less, just make sure to leave enough room for the bolts.
In terms of this type of belt squat, there is a curve to the movement pattern. The shorter the total length, the more you feel the curve at the bottom of the movement. The longer it is, the less you feel the curve.
The total length of mine is 41 inches.
Ok, back to the build.
I pre-drill holes for my 3/8” bolts. Yes, I am using bigger bolts here to give this connection point extra strength.
I add one final 1/4” bolt to the very front to keep these two 2x4s from separating.
I will be using a 5/8” eyebolt for my belt connection point. It is probably overkill but at least I know it’ll hold.
I use a 5/8” auger bit to drill the hole for it.
The simple version of this belt squat is top loaded. I use a 45 pound plate to mark where I’ll put my weight pin.
The cheapest way to do this is a dowel and a recessed hole. If you don’t have a forstner bit, using a plumbing pipe is a super easy alternative.
The 2x4s will be supporting the weight, the plumbing pipe is just there to keep the weights in place, so you can use screws to attach.
And that’s it for the build. You can use a hitch pin to easily attach and detach it.
Something to take into consideration with this type of belt squat is that you’re only lifting a portion of the amount of weight put on it. Why? Because of math and physics, not really my area of expertise. Just keep this in mind when using it.
If you’re really curious about how much you’re lifting, you can use a luggage scale to test it out. Having the weight closer or farther from the rack will make a difference.
There are also weight variations in the movement itself – this is known as the resistance curve.
But anyway, if you like doing belt squats with this thing but want to make it easier to get in and out of, you can prop it up with a 2×4 or add a couple of screws and springs to that 2×4 and turn it into a retractable kickstand.
Measure the length you’ll need and cut the 2×4
I use a 2 inch door hinge to attach the 2×4 to the bottom of the belt squat.
I’ve got two 8-inch springs that I attach with lag bolts. The more tension they’re in when you attach them, the more forcefully they’ll move the kickstand.
In my opinion, this is a must-have.
The next optional upgrade is a handle. Some people like the added stability of a handle, some don’t. If you want to try it, here’s what you need:
a floor flange, a 12 inch pipe nipple, a 45 degree elbow, a 6 inch pipe nipple, a t connector, two more 6 inch pipe nipples and two caps
I used 1” pipe for everything but 3/4” would also work.
I am not planning on pulling on this handle, so I think lag bolts will be strong enough to keep it in place. You could always run bolts all the way through if you need extra strength.
Screw everything together in just a few minutes, and you’re ready to roll.
Personally, I love the added stability from the handle, it allows me to go reel deep on my belt squats.
The next upgrade is the seated calf raise!
Add a flange to the front where the eyebolt is. Unscrew the center pipe and screw it into the front flange.
Unscrew the handle and set it aside.
Add a 2 inch nipple to the center flange.
I attach a 1-inch to 3/4 inch connector and screw a 6 inch long 3/4 inch pipe into that. Why reduce the size? You’ll see in a minute.
Screw in a t connector on top and 10” pipes into each side
Add the pads to those pipes. These pads will not fit on the 1” pipes, that’s why we need the ¾” pipe here
A 45-degree elbow on the ends of those, 6-inch pipes into those, and caps on the ends
Once everything is in place, you can use loctite to set everything permanently.
Last thing I need to do is the seat. I already have this small upholstered pad from an old project. I attach a flange to the bottom of it and screw in a 2 inch nipple.
Now, this thing can just screw into place.
I test it out without weights, and it feels good. I test it out with weights, and it is perfect.
I know I’ll get some questions about my design choices on this one.
One of my primary goals was to be able to switch back and forth without too much work.
As it is currently designed, it takes about 3 minutes to go from seated calf raise back to belt squat.
Not bad!
Let us know what you think in the comment section below!
Materials for the $20 Belt Squat
100 inches of 2×4 (this can be one 9 ft 2×4 or two 5 ft 2×4’s)
3.5 inch bolts and 7 inch bolts along with nuts and washers (thickness of the bolts is up to you, 3/8” will get the job done)
| Link #1 | Link #2 | |
| 5/8” x 6” Eye bolt | Amazon | |
| 1” floor flange | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 12” long 1” steel pipe | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 1” pipe cap | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 1” hitch pin | Tractor Supply | |
| Or 5/8” hitch pin | Amazon | |
| 1/4 x 1.25 lag bolts | Amazon | |
| 2 inch wood screws | Home Depot | |
| Luggage scale to test out the loaded weight | Amazon |
Materials for the kickstand
| Link #1 | Link #2 | |
| 15 to 20 inches of 2×4 | ||
| 2 inch door hinge | Amazon | Home Depot |
| Two 8 inch springs | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 1/4 x 1.25 lag bolts | Amazon |
Materials for the handle
| Link #1 | Link #2 | |
| 1” floor flange | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 12” long 1” steel pipe | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 1” 45 degree elbow | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 3 – 6” long 1” steel pipe | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 1” T-connector | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 2 – 1” pipe cap | Amazon | Home Depot |
| I used 1” but ¾” inch pipe would also work |
Materials for the calf raise
| Link #1 | Link #2 | |
| 2 – 1” floor flange | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 2 – 2” long 1” pipe nipple | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 1” to ¾” pipe connector | Amazon | Home Depot |
| ¾” 6 inch pipe nipple | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 3/4 inch pipe 12 inches long | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 3/4 inch t-connector | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 3/4 inch 10” pipe nipple | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 3/4 45 degree elbow | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 3/4 inch pipe caps | Amazon | Home Depot |
| Ader 8” foam roller pads | Amazon | |
| Loctite | Amazon | Home Depot |
DIY Calf Raise Block
Tools
| Link #1 | Link #2 | |
| Dewalt sliding miter saw | Amazon | Home Depot |
| Dewalt cordless drill | Amazon | Home Depot |
| Dewalt impact driver | Amazon | |
| Drill press | Amazon | Home Depot |
| Combination square | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 12 inch long 3/8 drill bit | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 1 inch forstner bit | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 5/8 inch forstner bit | Amazon | Home Depot |
| 9/16th auger bit | Amazon | Home Depot |
| Dewalt 20V Circular Saw | Amazon | Home Depot |