DIY Seal Row Bench

Written by: Kaizen DIY

*Kyle was recently on the GGE Podcast. Take a listen on  SpotifyAppleAnchor, or search “#14 DIY DEEP DIVE with Kaizen DIY Gym” wherever you listen to podcasts.

Introduction

Hello everyone, welcome back to another DIY gym equipment tutorial. I’m Kyle, and this week I’ll show you how to make a seal row bench attachment for your power rack. This article is broken out into four different sections:

Plus, the video is below!

WHY?

What are seal rows? They are rows that you perform while laying horizontal. The word seal comes from the tendency of the lifter to kick their legs up when lifting.

There are many benefits to performing seal rows, but the most significant advantage is that they allow for full activation of the lats while putting no pressure on the lower back.

There are many options for purchasing dedicated seal row benches, but they tend to be pricey and have a big footprint, such as this option from Rogue.

That’s why this is such a great build. The cost for me was around $30 because I already had a lot of this stuff lying around. If you’re buying the materials new, it’ll be about $80-$90. The total size is 48 x 12 x 7 inches, and it weighs just under 25 pounds. I stash it behind my functional trainer when I’m not using it.

It’s a pretty versatile piece of equipment. In addition, to seal rows, I’ve also used it as an adjustable height plyo box. It works excellent for hip thrusts, box squats, bodyweight reverse hypers, split squats. It’s the perfect support for my preacher pad, dumbbell step-ups, GHD sit-ups, and I can use it to turn my gym into my home office.

Instructions

I won’t be providing a cut list for this project. All of the dimensions will be specific to your power rack. Instead, I’ll show you how to determine the sizes you need.

I start by cutting my 2×12. You’ll want to measure the distance to the outside of each safety. For me, it’s 48 inches. I’m using a sliding miter saw, but you can also use a circular saw for this cut.

Next, I find a scrap 2×4 and cut it into two 10 inch pieces. This length is not super important as long as it is not longer than the width of your 2×12

I want to secure this to my safeties using hitch pins when in use. To make that work, I’ll be drilling 3/4 inch holes into the 2x4s. I hold a 2×4 up to my safety and mark one of the holes with a pencil. When drilling, I stack them and clamp them, so the holes are identical.

These holes will allow me to attach to my safety spotter arms using hitch pins.

By the way, if you’re checking this out and thinking it is too much work or you don’t want to invest in the tools, that’s fine too. You can buy something very similar from Rogue, it’s called the Monster Utility Seat, and it is solid as a rock. 

In terms of placing the 2x4s, they’ll go on the insides of the safeties. You can set your 2×12 on the safeties and mark where they sit.

I’ll be attaching the 2×4’s to the 2×12 using 3-inch lag screws. I use a 1 1/8 inch forstner bit and drill about half an inch deep. This will make sure the lag screws sit flush. Once those are drilled, I take a smaller bit and drill through the center.

After clamping the 2×4 in place, I add lag screws and washers, and this part is done.

At this point, you can call it a day. It works as a seal row bench perfectly. 

I want to make mine a little more comfortable to use. I’ll be adding a removable pad to the top. 

Don’t let this scare you off if you’re new to upholstery. I only learned recently, and I’m definitely not a pro, but it’s not that bad. If that still didn’t convince you, you can try using a yoga mat or gym flooring tiles for some easy padding.

I’m using 1/2 inch thick plywood cut to the same dimensions as my 2×12

These long rip cuts are much easier with a table saw but can also be done with a circular saw or jigsaw.

I lay the 2×12 on top of the plywood to mark and drill my holes.

These holes don’t have to be perfectly symmetrical, but it helps if you think you may want to remove the pad at some point.

I clamp my pieces together before drilling my holes. I’ll be using 1/4 inch bolts to attach these pieces, so I use a 3/8th inch forstner bit to give myself a little extra room. You’ll want at least to go deep enough to hit the plywood underneath.

Once I’m through the 2×12, I move it and drill the rest of the way through the plywood.

Flip it around and do the same thing on the other side.

I am using prolonged T nuts to secure the bolts for the pad. These hammer in super easy.

I flip the plywood over and lay the 2×12 over the top. You’ll want to make sure the holes line up before moving on to the next step.

Mine line up perfectly. Time for padding.

I am using 1-inch thick foam. If you want more padding, you can go thicker or double up.

I lay the plywood on top and mark where I need to cut the foam. My foam is not quite long enough, but that’s an easy fix.

The foam will go on the same side as the t-nuts. I spray some adhesive down before placing the foam.

I can use a scrap piece to fill in the missing part.

The material I use to cover the foam is some fake vinyl. I got a large roll for pretty cheap on Amazon. I have the link for it in the description. 

You’ll want an excess of about two and a half inches on each side. After cutting the material, I am ready to staple it.

The trick to using the stapler is to have the right staples and the proper amount of pressure. I am using 1/2 staples because my plywood is 1/2 inch. The staple gun is powerful, so I turn the pressure down pretty low. You should make sure to test the pressure before starting this step.

Once that is set, you just lay the fabric down and staple. Be careful not to staple your fingers. 

Corners are tricky, and I still haven’t figured out how to make them look good, but as long as the staples hold the fabric down, it’s fine.

I spray paint the 2×12 piece black before attaching the pad. I don’t bother spraying the part that the pad will cover.

This next part is super easy as long as your holes line up properly.

Once the bolts are secure, this thing is good to go.

You can do seal rows with dumbbells, you can do them with straight barbells, you can use a curl bar, but I like to use a cambered bar because of the extra range of motion they allow.

Complimenting Products

I currently have two camber bars – The Bells of Steel Arch Nemesis and the Titan multi-grip camber bar. Both costs around $200 and are great to have around the home gym.

Materials

2x12x6′ yellow pine board – (http://homedepot.sjv.io/qn0JP5

2×4 36″ (http://homedepot.sjv.io/rn0Z7R

4 – lag screws – Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/ZdNyzK

4 – ¼” washers – Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/4eEWA0

½ inch 2’x4′ plywood – Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/gbrjmA

4 – 1/4 inch prolonged t-nut – Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/za0EAr

4 – 2  inch 1/4″ bolts – Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/yRO0a3

1-inch thick upholstery foam (https://amzn.to/3wRIDFp

1 yard of black vinyl fabric (https://amzn.to/3if7waa

Spray adhesive – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/3fLYOym), Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/0JYe1J) Black spray paint (https://amzn.to/34EKOzZ), Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/2rKAJQ)

Tools

Dewalt sliding miter saw – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/3pdqFe3), Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/3P7GRB)

Dewalt table saw – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/3d5kLqt), Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/15bmom)

Drill press – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/3wh8beK), Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/doRm3K) – alternatively, the holes can also be drilled using a cordless drill

Dewalt cordless drill – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/3g2VM7L), Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/doRm3K)

Dewalt impact driver – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/31OpKZV)

1 1/8 forstner drill bit – Amazon lnk (https://amzn.to/3IC2QFe)

1/4 inch drill bit – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/3z01Q9K), Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/9WeXxy)

Combination square – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/3AZCqcs), Home Depot link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/KeZxdA)

 Wood Clamp set – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/2YybFOZ)

⅜ drill bit – (https://amzn.to/2YIOAIU)Pneumatic staple gun – Amazon link (https://amzn.to/3yYqSWP), Home Depot Link (https://homedepot.sjv.io/e4R6Jj)

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